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In deep water, a tsunami moves very fast and has a long wavelength and a small amplitude (see A in picture). As it enters shallower water, it slows down, and the wavelength decreases. This causes the wave to become much taller (see B in picture).As waves slow down, they start to bunch together, so they have a shorter wavelength than before. This can also be explained by the wave equation v = f x λ (speed = frequency x wavelength), which shows that, when a wave’s speed decreases, it must have a shorter wavelength than before – slowing down won’t change the wave’s frequency.Having a shorter wavelength means that the waves get higher. You could think of the shortened wave as being ‘squashed’ sideways – the water in the wave has to get higher because there’s not as much room for it within the shorter wavelength. It’s a bit like squeezing a toothpaste tube – all the toothpaste is forced upwards.
